1. Introduction:
è Textiles
are vulnerable to toxins and micro-organisms that cause infections and allergic
reactions. A variety of textile products such as herbal textiles and clothing
have arrived in the market to help you maintain a healthy lifestyle and hygiene. Most home textile products come in
contact with the skin. So, it is advisable that herbally treated fabrics are
used since they are not chemically treated and are eco-friendly.
è Due
to current eco- consciousness there has been a revival of inherent in eco-friendly
natural dyes throughout the world. The application of herbal products on the
textile substances is a very new concept. It gives a new direction towards the
treatments of various diseases through textile industry.
è Herbal
Textile is dyed entirely with herbal extractions, without using any sort of
chemicals. The herbs used are different from vegetable dyes as they are not
only natural but also have medicinal value. These herbs are applied directly to
the fabric with the help of natural ingredients, so that the medicinal value of
the herbs can be kept intact. No chemical process is adopted while dyeing. Even
bleaching of cloth is done naturally by exposing it to sunlight. The herbs also
do not pollute the environment through contamination of water resources in
areas close to processing units. All kinds of shades of red, yellow, brown,
orange and green etc. can be prepared with the help of these herbs.
è When
the textile is dyed with the extractions obtained from various herbs, they are
referred to as Herbal Textile. When the dyeing is done with herbal extractions,
no chemicals are used in its dyeing process.
è Whereas,
some chemicals such as copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate are used as
catalysts when dyeing is done with vegetable dyes. So, herbal dyes are
different from vegetable dyes as they also carry some or the other medicinal
value.
è The
concept of herbal textiles is derived from Ayurvastra - a branch of Ayurveda,
the ancient 5,000 year old Indian system of Vedic healthcare. Loosely translated,
“ayur” is Sanskrit for health, “veda” means wisdom, and “vastra” is cloth or
clothing. Ayur vastra clothing is made from organic cotton fabric that has been
permeated with special herbs and oils that promote health and cure special
diseases depending upon the blends of embedded herbs and oils.
è Since long time Ayurvastra cloth has
been in use in the treatment of a broad range of diseases such as diabetes,
skin infections, eczema, psoriasis, hypertension and high blood pressure,
asthma, arthritis, rheumatism, and even some forms of cancer. Ayurvastra
clothing is believed to help restore balance within the body’s systems and
strengthen the immune system.
What Is Herb?
Herbs
are garden plants that are grown and harvested for culinary, aromatic,
medicinal, and fibrous uses. Plant herbs are placed in the garden for their
unmistakable fragrances, attractive textures, appealing colors, and variety of
home uses.
Some of the Herbs Used in Textiles are:
Turmeric: Turmeric belongs to the same family as
ginger, Sometimes known as "Indian saffron", it is the source of the
familiar yellow color of many Asian curry dishes. Both the culinary spice and
the dye are obtained from its root. Turmeric was and is still used for textile
painting and printing in India.
Indigo: Indigo's ability to produce an
extensive range of beautiful blue shades has made it the most successful dye
plant ever known. The commercially available indigo powder is made from the
leaves of Indigofera tinctoria, which requires hot, sunny, and humid growing
conditions to flourish.
Madder: Madder's leafy tops sprawl untidily over the ground and their
clusters of tiny yellow flowers look insignificant. Yet to the dyer, madder is
a miracle of nature because its roots contain alizarin, one of the most
valuable red dye pigments ever known.
Pomegranate: The succulent pomegranate fruit yields an ocher-yellow dye and the
skin is rich in tannin, which improves colorfastness.
Onion: The outer skin of this common vegetable is one of the most useful
and readily available dyestuffs. It is ideal for a novice dyer's first
experiments since it reliably produces rich, vibrant shades of orange, yellow,
rust, and brown on all fibers.
Manjistha: It is an Ayurvedic herb that is usually used as blood purifier and
diuretic.
Sandalwood: Sandalwood is heavy and yellow in color as well as fine grained
and unlike many other aromatic woods, it retains its fragrance for decades.
Neem: It is a large Semi-evergreen tree, trunk ex-dues a tenacious gum,
bitter bark used as toxic, seeds yield aromatic oil, sometimes placed in Genus
Melia.
Production
flow chart
HERBAL DYEING PROCESS
Fabric Selection
l
Desizing
l
Bleaching
l
Mordanting
l
Extract Herbal dye
solution
l
Dyeing
or\and Printing
l
Finishing
l
Made ups
l
Labeling and packing
l
Dispatch
Selection of Fabrics:-
Types of fabric
· 100 % cotton woven ( mainly Popline )
· 100 % Cotton knitted ( 80 to 180 GSM )
· 100% cotton terry for bath collection
· Jute
· Bamboo fiber
· Banana for door mate
· Eco-Friendly fabrics like KHADI
(Handspun and Handwoven fabric), Non Violent Silk/Peace Silk, Organic denim,
Wood based fibres, Special Blended Fabrics.
· Fabrics or Yarns used are normal
cotton or certified organic cotton, silk, wool, linen, jute, hemp etc. and
their natural blends.
· Organic cotton is grown without using
pesticides from plants which are not genetically modified.
Desizing
The washing of processed greige cloth starts with removing sizing,
gums and oils used in the course of weaving by washing with natural
mineral-rich water and sea salts.
Bleaching
Fabrics are exposed to direct sunlight and use of a natural grass
base and animal manure starts the bleaching process.
Mordanting
To make the colors bright and fast, natural mordants such as
myrobalan, rhubarb leaves, oils, minerals, alum, iron vat etc are used.
Dyeing Process:
Extract Herbal dye solution
Colour Kitchen / Dye extraction unit
- Herbs having meditational and Coloring
in powder form
(Basic are Turmatic, Manjistha, Harde, Neem, Tulsi, Pomegranate,
Kesudo flower, Etc.)
- Other ingredients are alum (fatakdi),
potassium dia Chrome, Ferrus sulphate, Copper sulphat, nikel sulpahte, stannous
cholride). All ingrideants are 100% eco friendly and non toxic
Extract colour/dye carefully in aqueous (liquid) form; from herbal
dried powder by socking and boiling
Before dyeing
- Wrap fabric batch on roller trolly .
Its mannual procces
- Dyeing machine preparation – ( dye
bath, heating dye solution)
Dyeing
Medicinally rich herbs, plant material, minerals & oils like,
turmeric, Keshudo flower, indrani fal, mehendi, chandan, manjith, sapan,
myrobalan, castor oil, sea salt etc are use for dyeing fabric or yarn.
Fabric batch is coat with mordent like tannic acid
extracted from harda, in dyeing machine.
-
After coating fabric dried in shade.
- After drying further dyeing steps
takes place.
2. Fabric is dyed with herbal extract dye
solution in dyeing machine at required temperature (60 to 90 degree centigrade).
3. After dyeing fabric is treated with
fixing agent like metal sulphate for fastness purpose.
4. Fabric dried in shade.
Quality Checking and testing
Dried fabrics tested for color fastness and shade variation.
Printing
Dyed or undyed fabric is printed with meditational extract by
screen printing.
-Designing
-Screen making ( out side job - work )
-cooking Paste
-Colour mixing with paste
-fabric printing
-Drying
Finishing
In herb dyeing, finishing is done by sprinkling pure water on the
cloth and then stretching under pressure, using rolls, aloe vera, castor oil
etc.
Made ups Stitching
- Different type of garments, house hold
items stitch at this stage.
- Garments production takes place by
outside job work locallyaccording requirement and standard measurements, with
wash care labels.
All information gathered from various websites and books
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